Tuesday, 29 December 2020

More rock climbing

Miya and I are continuing to rock climb a few times a week (two and a half months since we first started).

Yesterday, I completed my first yellow!!

Miya and I have got different climbing styles/strengths; she can do some climbs that I can't do, and vice versa.  She's got the finger strength and endurance, while I've got the arm reach and pullup strength.

Yesterday, Miya also completed a new green that I haven't yet done (I fell after just touching, but not securing, the top hold!).

The only reason Miya couldn't do the yellow one I did was that I had the long reach to the final hold at the top.  Miya's working on an extra heel hook, and is close but not quite there yet.

I think I'm right to say that Miya has completed six greens, while I've completed five greens and a yellow.

With climbing so often, Miya and I are starting to try activities and projects, rather than just turn up and climb:

  1. Yesterday, we tried eliminating a limb and climbing with three limbs only.  We managed to do a blue without a leg/foot, and an orange without an arm/hand.  It was surprisingly scary, often off-balance and unsecured.
  2. We're also doing more projecting.  We're currently working on a few tougher climbs (greens and yellows), breaking them down into sections and working on each section separately.  One activity we tried was to project a climb for 20 minutes, then project another climb for 20 minutes, then return to the first climb and make three attempts at it, then do the same for the second climb.
  3. I'm starting to do a bit more on the campus board, working on pullups and finger strength.
  4. We're sometimes doing circuits on an inclined wall.

We've booked Miya in for climbing classes in term 1.  I expect with advice from the experts she'll go beyond me very soon.

UPDATE 30/12/2020: Miya and I repeated our new climbs, this time on video.  Me doing a yellow:


And Miya on the green:

Monday, 14 December 2020

Mulan, Auckland recordholder

 We discovered today that Mulan's name is in the record-books!

Check out the Auckland Athletics senior records.  Scroll down to the bottom and there is Mulan's name, for the Under 14 Women triple jump.  9.32m on the 14th of November 2020.

AWESOME!!!

(And apparently Mulan is a woman now!)

Sunday, 13 December 2020

Belmont Music Centre

 Yesterday was the final day of the year for Belmont Music Centre.

In the morning we had a concert, and a prizegiving, and a shared lunch.

Only I wasn't there as I was symptomatic and self-isolating.  My Covid-19 test came back negative the previous evening, but it's still best that symptomatic people self-isolate as much as possible.

So, Mama, Mulan and Miya enjoyed it without me, and from all reports it went very well.

Music Centres are for primary and intermediate school age children only, so this year Mulan was too old to be enrolled.  (She helped out in the String Band sometimes, but with a dislocated finger she can't play her cello at the moment.)

Miya, however, was very involved.  This year she enrolled in three instruments -- clarinet, trumpet and keyboard.  She played in the Jazz Band and also joined the String Band in the concert for one piece.

And a HUGE congratulations to Miya!!!  With all her work on so many instruments (she's also learnt recorder and violin for a few years), Miya was voted by the teachers as winner of the Senior Music Cup for Excellence.

Miya has enrolled for next year in trumpet and saxophone.  We've also arranged that she'll continue to have private lessons with the clarinet teacher.  She likes the clarinet (and the teacher is awesome!), but she'll be too advanced for the classes offered at BMC.

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On a less important note, yesterday was also the final day for me as BMC Manager (yay!!)

I offered to do it a year ago, when no one else wanted to do it and BMC was in danger of closing.  But I didn't want to do it long-term, and we worked to find someone else to take on the job.

It's all sorted, and Chris Davis has now taken over as BMC Manager.  He's very capable, and I have every confidence that things will go well next year.

Mama and I are both volunteering on the parents committee, so we'll still be helping out to some extent.

(Haha -- we've been zooming in on the photo Blade Runner style, and seeing me looking strange in the cup reflections!)

Thursday, 10 December 2020

Auckland athletics relays

 Besides the ballet, last weekend we were also busy with athletics.

Saturday morning we were at the Auckland Junior Relay Champs.

Mulan was in the Takapuna 13 Girls 4x100m and 4x200m relays, and they got third in both races.

We had to leave early after the 4x200m race, to get to the ballet rehearsal, so unfortunately Mulan couldn't join the field relay.  But I hear that the girls did extremely well and got second.

Wednesday, 9 December 2020

Ballet

Mulan and Miya's ballet finished for the year on Sunday.

Despite the Covid-interruptions, which meant lessons online in our dining room, things went extremely well.

First up, the girls had their exams a few months ago.

Both Mulan and Miya did the contemporary dance (NZAMD) exams, and both got Honours -- Mulan in Level 4 and Miya in Preparatory.

Mulan did the RAD Intermediate ballet exam, and got Distinction.

Miya's RAD Grade 4 exam was cancelled because of Covid, but the dance school, Rowe Dance, did in-house equivalent exams.

And then we had the show over the weekend, with the dress rehearsal on Saturday and two performances on Sunday.

This year they split each show into two separate parts.  The younger classes (of which Miya was one of the oldest) performed Peter Pan, while the older classes performed Les Sylphides.  All the contemporary dance classes were involved in Peter Pan.

What can I say?!  It was thoroughly enjoyable, and the kids all did amazingly well.  Miya was Tiger Lily, and really looked the part.  Mulan is now dancing en pointe, and the senior girls were all very impressive in their strength and elegance.

As always, the girls asked me to try to pick out what I liked best.  And as always it is so hard.  But if I had to pick one, I'd say Mulan's contemporary dance, in which they were the ocean in Peter Pan, was very beautiful.

Both girls got recognition at the prizegiving.  Mulan was congratulated for getting the second highest RAD exam mark in the School (actually third, as there were two first equals).  And Miya was awarded for her potential and work ethic dedication.

Sadly, the girls' dance school is closing.  Meaghan Rowe decided (understandably!) to devote more time to her young family, and has sold Rowe Dance to Mainly Dance Studios.  Apparently they're going to try to keep the existing Rowe Dance students and teachers together, but we'll see.  Mulan and Miya have decided that they will enrol at Mainly Dance next year, and see what happens.

Miya, however, had already decided to stop doing ballet next year, and will only do contemporary dance.  She's decided to focus more on her rock climbing, and we're also going to look into horse riding.

Wednesday, 25 November 2020

Book review: Humankind

Rutger Bregman's latest book, Humankind: A hopeful history, is popular at the Auckland library right now.

I requested it months ago, have only just finished reading it in my allotted time, and I have to return it in a few minutes for the next person in the queue.

It's understandable.  Bregman's book is a great read, and I highly recommend it.

Last year I read Bregman's other well-known book, Utopia for Realists, and I reviewed it here.

Humankind continues in the same style as Utopia, as a super-easy-to-read yet thought-provoking and occasionally challenging evidence-based approach to modern political issues.

If we could sum up Bregman's thesis in two words, it would be "be kind."  He then spends 400 pages explaining why, with reasons from history and science.

But at heart, as I see it, Bregman's book is motivational and inspirational.  It's written in a style that creates an optimistic feel in the reader (or at least in me!), that doing the decent thing is okay.  Despite the occasional toxicity, despite the cynicism from naysayers, and despite the occasional loss, being kind is the most successful approach to life. 

Bregman dives into the human nature debate, coming out on the side of Rousseau et al that human nature is basically good, and that often civilisation corrupts our basic goodness.  He argues against the mainstream "cynical" view that humans are naturally selfish and individualistic, and that we need rules and order to minimise conflict.

But the issue is complicated, because human nature is complicated, and Bregman also discusses that.

Bregman argues that, contrary to the cynics, the real "realist" approach to life is to accept the solid evidence that humans are actually pretty decent and kind, for the most part.

Bregman goes through many of the psychological studies on this, such as the prison experiment, the shock machine, and the boys camp.  He also discusses William Golding's fictional story, Lord of the Flies (I discuss this here).  He points out the flaws in these studies and stories, and why they don't show that human nature is bad.  He gives a bit of evolutionary psychology and early-human anthropology.

Bregman then turns to some practical social and political implications for this positive view of human nature.

To sum it up very quickly, Bregman is a minimalist when it comes to management and political oversight.  He thinks that in many situations we would do better to have fewer controls and less managerial involvement.

He discusses the prison system, examining the evidence that shows that the "tough" approach simply doesn't work.  Stricter policing, harsher penalties, and stricter prisons result in higher economic and social costs for all concerned.

Similarly, he also discusses education, management, healthcare, etc, with plenty of case studies to show that a more hands-off management style works better and more efficiently.

Bregman, as a historian, has done his research on this, and he fills the back section of the book with plenty of references to studies and evidence.

We could quibble about some of the details, but I really don't want to.

This is because I think that the most important thing is creating the right mindset.  Bregman's book is about doing just that.  If we have a pessimistic outlook on life, and if we distrust those around us, then we create a society that reflects that.  But if we have an optimistic outlook on life, and assume the best of people, then we create a society that is better for us all.

(I have to say, one quibble I have is that Bregman assumes that Machiavelli was Machiavellian.  It's a shame that Bregman didn't read Erica Benner on this -- I reviewed Benner's book a few months ago.)

Right, time to dash off to the library and return the book!

Monday, 23 November 2020

Athletics relays, a dislocated finger (and more rock climbing)

Mulan picked up two silver medals yesterday at the CNW (Central, North, West Auckland) athletics relay competition.

Her 13 Girls Takapuna team got second in the 4x100m.

πŸ‘ŸShe did the shot put in the 13 Girls field event relay (with two other Takapuna teammates doing discus and long jump), also getting second.

The field event relays at CNW are always a challenge, as they only allow two attempts and no practice.  But things went perfectly for Mulan, with two great throws and a new PB (personal best) of 8.00m exactly.

Mulan's team also got 4th in the 4x400m relay.πŸƒ

But she almost wasn't able to compete at all.

Exactly a week earlier, Mulan dislocated her finger during athletics training.  It was a scary few minutes for us all with her little finger sticking out in the wrong direction!

But the medical system worked as it should.  The White Cross emergency doc had her finger pointing in the right direction again within 30 minutes of it happening, and we've got regular appointments at the Hands On rehab clinic just five minutes bike ride from home.  (All free, except for the $25 x-rays.)  They've assured us there should be a full recovery in 4-6 weeks.

But it does mean that Mulan will have to slow down a bit.  There's no cello at all for now, as it's her left hand.  Gymnastics is also a no-no, which means that she can't compete at the North Harbour Gymnastics Gym Festival this coming Sunday.  We're taking a break from swimming for now.  And Mulan can't do any athletics jumping -- it's a bit too risky with the landings (hence the shot put yesterday rather than long jump).

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Meanwhile, Miya and I are continuing to improve with our rock climbing.

We have both now completed two green climbs at Northern Rocks, after Miya got the first green 10 days ago.