Monday 6 August 2018

China trip: Part 3

(Continuing from Part 2)

Sunday 15 July
It rained heavily in the morning, but on clearing in the afternoon we headed out, with packed sandwiches, to visit the old city centre.  We caught the metro to the Kuanzhaixiangzi station, where, emerging out, we discovered that lots of others had thought the same thing on a Sunday afternoon.  So, we found a sitting area on the roadside and ate our sammies while people-watching.  Opposite our picnic spot was a Rosa Cake shop, which the girls took photos of to show to cousin Rosa.


We wandered around the local area, which is a bit like the old hutongs in Beijing, and has been done up as an old-style modern shopping area.  There were plenty of street-side skilled artisans sells their wares.  We passed by several dripping a treacle-like liquid onto a marble-looking bench to make clever shapes/pictures, which then hardened for people to eat.  Another was also using a sugary heated goo to make edible balloon animals, which also hardened on cooling.  We saw people walking around drinking multi-coloured and/or steaming drinks.  Another shop had interesting musical instruments.  (The girls and I learnt here of a different musical notation system, which uses numbers with dots above/below for sharps/flats.  Mama was surprised we didn’t know it.  Maybe it is just local Chinese?)





(What is the square root of tree?)

Miya got a bit overwhelmed by all the noise, and we exited the area in search of a quieter park.  We came across the People’s Park, which was a little more restful, though Miya complained about the noisy cicadas!

Sufficiently recovered, we investigated the park and discovered it to be like its namesake park in Shanghai, where in one area oldies were lining the pathways advertising their descendants and trying to find good marriage partners for them.

Mulan and Miya are still a bit too young for marriage, so we left that area and headed to the central lake, where we found rowboats for hire.  This was just the thing to relax the mind, and the four of us hopped into a boat with two narrow paddles to very slowly push us around on the water.



Our hour up, just before 6 pm we headed for shore.  The boat-hire business was closing for the day, and we were almost ready for dinner.  More walking, and we found a suitable restaurant.  Yet another shared meal, and my stomach has grown hugely in the two weeks.  I’m looking more pregnant than gym-fit, and this time I refused to squeeze in the leftovers.  We doggy-bagged one dish into the boxes that had previously housed our lunchtime sammies.

Mama said that before we head home we had to visit a light-display area.  So, a bit more walking and we got to Jinli, another crowded old-style modern outdoor market area, this time with lots of red lanterns hanging on the walls.  We walked a few minutes into the crowds, before Miya had had enough, and then extricated ourselves back the same way.


The bus stop to the metro was opposite the market entrance — we needed to catch bus number 1.  Our driver, whose name Mulan translated as Tall Sun, was even crazier than usual for a bus driver.  We’d just found a spot to stand near the back door, and were luckily mostly holding on, when the driver stopped suddenly and people literally went flying.  Mulan, Miya and I managed to keep hold, but Mama didn’t, and stumbled into the door-opening area.  I stuck one arm out towards Mulan, and a leg towards Mama (and my chest for Miya), which I think may have slowed her down a bit.  Mama was unhurt, though she'd had a fright.  My ankle was slightly twisted, and took a couple of days for the pain to go.  Unfortunately, the driver hadn’t learnt his lesson, and continued to make several more sudden stops (though not quite as sudden as the first).  But it was a good lesson for the girls, and both are now making sure to hold on properly at all times (Miya has been a bit nervous about buses since, not liking any bumps, but is still riding them).

Monday 16 July
Around midday, while the others were relaxing at home, I went out for a couple of hours on my own, walking around our neighbourhood taking photos.  I  walked past the Global Center and into Jincheng Park, doing a circuit around the lake.  I returned home via a scenic route, doing a lap around our block.

For most of our stay in Chengdu, Mama had been talking about a huge aquarium that we should go and see, and so after lunch we set out in search of it.  It was pretty far away — we caught the metro to the Wuhou Ave station before catching the 368A bus for about 40 minutes to the end of the line.

When we got out of the metro station we saw a big black cloud of smoke rising in the distance.  It looked fairly newly started, and later on the cloud was darkening more of the sky.  Was it a huge building fire?  Was it an explosion?  Was it a terrorist attack?  Most locals were ignoring it and just going about their business.  But one old man stood by us watching it and seems very curious, too.  It wasn’t in the direction we were going, and eventually we continued on our way.  Mama couldn’t find any news about it later, so either it wasn’t serious enough, or it was too serious and the news was suppressed.

Getting out of bus 368A, we arrived at yet another shopping centre, indistinguishable from the hundreds of others.  But inside there was supposed to be a giant fish tank with a huge glass viewing wall.  Well, the fish tank and impressive glass wall was there, but it was done as only China could do it.  The two-story high glass wall was set in an atrium with about four or so floors viewing it.  But rather than make a feature of it, with easy public viewing, they had built temp-style shops in front of it, obscuring large parts of it from being seen, as well as significantly restricting the standing areas available to see it.  But don’t worry, you could pay to get in to a fenced-off section up close to the glass.  And when, after a few minutes, you were bored with looking, there was plenty of the usual noisy entertainment, including a mini-train circling around every few minutes.


As I said to the family, our expedition to see the giant aquarium was a bit like climbing a mountain.  Lots of effort to get to the top, then we look at the nice view for a few minutes before starting the long journey home again.  In total we were out for over four hours.  Mulan and Miya said it was worth it.

After dinner at home, we went downstairs for pudding — another cheese-tea drink.  I tried a chocolate-cheese one.  It was still nice, but it didn’t have the interesting taste combination of the tea, which made it so special.

Tuesday 17 July
We had a rest day, in preparation for leaving Chengdu for Guiyang.  Mama had lunch out with the extended family.

Wednesday 18 July
Mama is not quite at the level of Pussy Riot, but she did get caught rebelling against the system.

We left Chengdu in the morning, catching the 10:39 am train to Guiyang.  The girls and I insisted on leaving home a bit earlier than needed, and it was a much more peaceful journey to the intercity train station.

Mama’s rebellion was against the train company.  They have a ticket payment system in which half-fares are for children who are both (a) less than 150 cm tall and (b) 15 years (we think) or younger.  Mulan, at age 11, is now over 150 cm tall, so according to the train regulations she is supposed to pay full fare.

By most standards, this is a strange system, where some 11-year-olds pay adult fares, while some 15-year-olds pay child fares.  Or alternatively, if, implausibly, the train company’s reasoning is based on the size of their passengers, because of the resources used in transporting them, then surely adults under 150 cm should just pay half fares.  (When we got to Guiyang we passed by a male guard outside a restaurant who we are sure was shorter than Miya!)

As far as we can work out, this payment system is a relic of the past, when Chinese IDs with ages were not so trustworthy.  So, it was easier for the various Chinese companies to use height rather than age.  But these days IDs are reliable, and other transport in China, like planes, use age-based systems only.

We think the train company should update its system, and so Mama, as a token rebellion, bought half-fare tickets for Mulan.  This was the only time the attendants on the train took notice, and they asked Mulan to stand up and be measured.  On finding that Mulan was over 150 cm, they required that we pay the price difference to upgrade her to full fare.  Mama paid this on the train.  We think that everyone with children 15 or under should do the same, creating extra work for the train company, until the train company gets the message.

Our train journey took about five hours.  We passed through areas where the train display told us that the outside temperature was up to 39 degrees.  It was slightly cooler than that in Guiyang, and moreover, upon exiting the train we were delighted to feel it was more of a dry heat than a humid heat, and really quite pleasant.

One of Mama’s ex-students, who lives in Guiyang, organised a car for us to get to our apartment, and we had an interesting 30-minute drive from the train station through the mountains.  It is a mountain/valley area, and we drove through tunnels connecting little valley areas filled with apartments and other bits of city-life.  One valley seemed entirely made up of a spaghetti-junction-style motorway interchange.

We had been very spoilt in our Chengdu lifestyle, and our apartment in Guiyang was more typical hotel-room style.  There was a tiny little room (which in other apartments was a mini-kitchen) that had been set up as an extra bedroom, where the girls slept, top-and-tail.  But the balcony was a lovely closed-in sun-room.


Mulan's friend Dudu (now known as Lily) and family (Mum, Dad and little sister Kaka) had come to join us in our travels for the next several days.  They had flown in, arriving not long before us, and we said a quick hello to them while they ate at a nearby restaurant.  In the evening we all (both families) walked to an old bridge area for a spot of sightseeing.  The river was very low, but the riverside area was pleasant.



Our family was getting hungry so we said our goodbyes and us family went in search of a restaurant.  This would have to be the worst restaurant in our travels this time — the food arrived so slowly (and the restaurant was only about half full), and in the end after waiting ages we cancelled the last dish which apparently hadn’t even been started yet.  Our first dish, though, was a very interesting local one.  We received a tray containing about 20 small dishes of various chopped veggies — some recognisable, some not — as well as a pile of thin sticky pastry.  We put the veggies in the pastry and closed it up, dripping some vinegary liquid over it.  Apparently we paid for extra pastry, while the veggies were free to top up.  Most people at other tables seemed to leave most of their veggies, which were thrown away.  I mostly finished ours off, as our third dish, a potato one, turned out to have bits of meat tucked away inside (Miya just ate the potato parts).

In retrospect it was probably a mistake for me to eat the raw veggies (and so much of them).  Often I feel like a Chinese local, and so get relaxed about my eating habits, but my stomach is still a foreigner, and as we all know, eating raw veggies while travelling is not terribly wise.  I had about a week of feeling a little uncomfortable (and I had to visit a hospital for a couple of hours).

Thursday 19 July
It was just a one-night stay in this apartment in Guiyang, before moving on.  We had to leave home at 10:30 am to catch the train, but about an hour before leaving the power went off in the building — no idea if it was scheduled or unplanned.  Luckily, the lifts still worked, so we didn’t have to walk down from the 20th floor.

We caught a bus through the crowded streets to the intercity train station (a different one from the one we arrived at).  Mama said Guiyang reminded her of how Guangzhou used to look in the olden days, with chaotic traffic and lots of construction (lots of metro lines being built).

Our train to Anshun, which left 10 minutes late, was also a return to the olden days, being an old two-level slow train (though it did have air-con!).  Unfortunately, the double-glazed windows were fogged up inside, and it was hard to see the scenery.

Why were we here?  Anshun is the train stop to get to Huangguoshu, the world’s largest waterfall cluster, containing 18 waterfalls.  From the train station we (both families) took a 30-minute taxi ride to our hotel in the falls area, where we were staying one night.  Our plan was to walk one waterfall area this afternoon and another one the following morning.  Mama had done her research, and thought she knew where to go at what times, to (slightly) avoid the crowds.

So, first up, after dumping our bags and grabbing food for our walk, we got another taxi to the Tianxingqiao Falls area.  Our walk, which took about three or four hours, was pleasant and not too crowded by Chinese standards.  The first part of the walking track had stepping stones that each had a day of the year written on them.  The four children had fun finding their birthdays, and I guess it was a good way to keep the interest alive in kids who don’t normally do much walking.




(The Bridge Forest Bridge Forest Bridge is both to the left and to the right.)


(Outside a toilet block, this sign helpfully told us which cubicles were currently occupied.)

There was also plenty of the usual Chinese thing of named natural features (rocks, trees, etc) that supposedly look like people or animals.  Mostly, I couldn’t recognise the lions and dragons and so on that they claimed were there.  I saw a few, though not all, of the curvy-women-tree-roots, which was supposed to be an indicator of manly lustfulness.  The Tianxingqiao Fall itself was a beautifully shaped fall, and well worth the walk.


The park closed at 7:30 pm (the entire falls area is State-controlled, and only approved taxis go in and out of the area), and we arrived at the taxi pickup area just after 7 pm.  A taxi driver was busy on his phone ordering more taxis one-by-one as visitors straggled out of the park just before closing.  I am not sure what would have happened if we had exited too late.

We had dinner at our hotel before crashing into bed.  Our hotel was a typical Chinese small-town one — a basic, clean, four-floors-and-no-lift, concrete building with tiled floors.  We were on the fourth floor.  Our toilet was squat-style.  The restaurant, on the ground floor, had plenty of mozzies.



Friday 20 July
We were up at 6 am, aiming to prove that Mama’s research had paid off.  According to her research, the best plan for seeing the main Huangguoshu waterfall was to get in there immediately when it opened.  Too much later and the crowds would be horrendous, even by Chinese standards.

The taxis to the area started moving at 7 am, so we grabbed a quick breakfast out on the footpath of the neighbouring hotel, and jumped into our (late) taxis about 7:30 am.  Apparently another group of tourists from the next door hotel had also ordered two taxis, and there was some dispute as to whether the arriving pair were ours or theirs (the drivers seemed to say they were ours).  Compromising, we took one of the first pair, while Lily’s family took one of the second pair.


Before seeing the falls themselves, the walk through the park was pleasant.  The potted banzai trees near the beginning were interesting, and the girls and I tried to decide which ones looked most like shrunken normal-sized trees.

To avoid the suspense, Mama’s research was correct.  We got to see the falls before the crowds became too much, and even as we were leaving the falls we could see that the paths leading in were getting ridiculously busy.

But the waterfall was indeed spectacular, and a definite must-see.  At 74 m high and 81 m wide, it has a unique natural(ish) path in the rocks behind the waterfall where we could see out through the curtain of falling water.  Behind the falls it was quite wet, and we had to wear raincoats to walk through.  We brought our own raincoats, but once again, just like at the panda park, the raincoat salespeople were doing excellent business with disposable plastic ones (but no plastic boots this time!).  Just after the falls, there were dozens of sacks of disposed-of raincoats — ten minutes and done.



On exiting this park area above the falls, we walked the short distance to the Doutangpo falls, the widest falls in the Huangguoshu area.  This waterfall was also pretty nice, but after the other two earlier falls, it didn’t have quite the impact it would have had on its own.


We finished our walk around midday and grabbed taxis back to our hotel, where we picked up our (packed) bags and some food and hopped into another couple of taxis for the return drive to Anshun train station.  Our train, again old-style but this time single level with clear windows, left at 3:24 pm, returning us to Guiyang.  We had booked an apartment in the same building as before (9th floor this time) for another two nights.



Mama and the girls ate at Pizza Hut just opposite our apartment building, but I stayed home because of the slight food-poisoning tummy.


Saturday 21 July
Mulan got her boil dressed at the nearby hospital for the final time this morning (they had been going daily for the past two weeks).  It had healed enough that we could do it ourselves after this.

Mama and the girls, with Lily’s family, went to Hebin Park for a few hours, while I stayed resting at home, fighting the food-poisoning.  They tell me that they had a fun time at an amusement park there.  They were going to visit a mini-zoo with monkeys, but it was too crowded.

In the evening, Mama met up with her ex-student.

(Part 4 here)

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